Road to Damascus

Should I be stricken with a peculiar religious fanaticism rooted in the 7th century, I could walk 15 minutes to the Charles Helou bus station and catch a ride to the Islamic State capital of Raqqa, Syria. People (well, Syrians provisionally stuck in Beirut) do it all the time. 

Instead I get aboard a minibus on the road to Damascus a) because I can and b) there’s a good deal of history to be seen out that way. The prevailing thinking in Beirut in mid-April 2016 is that traveling to the Syrian capital is relatively safe, but I don’t necessarily share that confidence and will stop 3 miles short of the frontier to see the 8th-century ruins at Anjar.

The Beirut-Damascus road generally follows the path of the old railway that used to connect the two cities. It ascends in a series of switchbacks to about 7,000 feet above sea level before dipping sharply into the Bekaa Valley. I thought I would share a few unremarkable photos of this journey, and Joe’s Market in Aley seems as good a place as any to begin.

I am informed that this span was destroyed by Israeli jets in 2006. A little research shows the United States pitched in $20 million for its reconstruction.

Gas stop.

The road appears to crest around Bhamdoun.

I really like this shot (above) for some reason.

Miles and miles of vineyards, interspersed with farmers markets, cover the valley floor. It's like frickin' Napa. Most governments list the Bekaa as a no-go zone, which is understandable because they can’t possibly account for daily fluctuations on the war front. The minibus companies, I am assured, call ahead each morning to ensure the coast is clear.

A stark welcome to the Bekaa Valley, Lebanon's bread- and, er, meatbasket.

Approaching the Armenian village of Anjar. I had never met an Armenian before I came to stay in the Beirut neighborhood where they’re concentrated. They’re geeky and craftsy, and they look out for me.

Young women work the fields here, while the men … hell, I don’t know, they stand around and gossip. I approve of this state of affairs and believe it will find a ready export market in my part of the world.

This spot is about 25 miles from Damascus and I'll go no further. More on the Anjar ruins in a bit.