Basterma Mano

Sidewalk shrines like this are common in my strongly Christian neighborhood (Orthodox), and I can hear the Muslim adhan only faintly in the distance. Things are far different on the west side, but I haven’t ventured there yet. I’m really enjoying the vibe here; only positive, friendly interactions so far. Pretty sure I stand out, but not overly so, having learned to walk confidently in traffic in 2013.

I had heard a lot about Basterma Mano and set off across the Emile Lahoud Expressway into Bourj Hammoud.

It’s an Armenian enclave where, in some ways, people live much as they did 100 years ago. The more I think about it though, you could say that about any place.

There it is. I bet a logophile could draw a line between the words "basterma" and "pastrami," and between "bourj" and "neighborhood," but I'm only guessing.

It’s so busy it has its own director of traffic, telling people where to park, when it’s OK to pull out, etc.

I had the shawarma soujouk, essentially an Armenian sausage burrito, with tomatoes and pickles inside. The soujouk is the stack on the left.

Stools line the sidewalk. It’s fun to eat and watch all the dopes who think driving here is a good idea. Be seeing you again, Mano!